Ellington

Just outside the declared limits of downtown, near where the water starts at the Hinds-Rankin line, Mary Harden mans the cash register in Beatty Street Grocery (101 Beatty St., 601-355-0514). The little white building has been a part of her family since her grandparents, Mack and Irene Baldwin, founded it 73 years ago, when the area was full of families and small homes. As south Jackson industrialized and the customers moved away, Beatty Street added a small, home-cooking restaurant to the grocery's back end. It was a genuine hole-in-the-wall: Harden remembers plates passing through an opening created in the wall dividing the meat market and the main shopping area.

Now co-owner, Harden oversees a close-knit group of women serving up old-fashioned baloney-egg-and-cheeses, chopped roast beef, and steaming burgers to grateful clientele from nearby offices and construction sites, who can eat at converted tables made of old stock shelves. Items such as canned goods, cigarettes, medicine, snacks and soap are still available at the market, and Tommy Boyles hand-slices cold cuts at the deli. Though a local haunt, Beatty Street's had some celebrity attention when Harden's daughter Skylar Laine was a finalist on last year's "American Idol."

Having grown up at Beatty Street Grocery, Harden compares her connection to the business to that of Darth Vader's authoritative prediction of Luke Skywalker's lot in life. "I always felt the calling to be here ... The Lord said, 'This is your destiny' when I was putting up soup cans when I was 5 years old with my grandfather."

Beatty Burger with Secret Seasoning

(serves four)

1.5 pounds lean ground beef

1 tomato, sliced

Lettuce, shredded

Condiments to taste (mayonnaise, mustard and ketchup)

Pickles

4 slices American cheese

4 white-bread buns

Secret Seasoning:

• 2 tablespoons lemon pepper

• 2 tablespoons garlic salt

• 2 tablespoons onion salt

• 2 tablespoons kosher salt

• 2 tablespoons black pepper

• 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning (such as Tony Chachere's)

Shape beef into thin patties and press flat onto griddle. Sprinkle liberally with Secret Seasoning on each side, and cook until well-done. Toast the buns lightly. Assemble with desired condiments (but use all for the real Beatty style!) and give a generous shake of Secret Seasoning before completing the burger.