Ellington

Nick Apostle, owner of Nick's and The Mermaid Café, and Nick's chef Derek George grew up with food. Apostle, 58, has Greek family origins, and George, 36, grew up in Davenport, Iowa, with a mother who enjoyed cooking ethnic foods. While Apostle has remained in Jackson all his life, George moved to Jackson after attending culinary school in New York. Nick's offers contemporary southern food, while the Mermaid Café serves a wide variety of food, from catfish to pizza. Apostle plans to close down Nick's location on Lakeland in favor of a new building in Fondren early next year. Apostle and George sat down with the Jackson Free Press to discuss the culinary business and the success of Nick's.

What is the culinary style at Nick's?
G: It is contemporary southern America. I believe that true southern cuisine is the only cuisine that is native to America. Granted, it's fried chicken, but you aren't going to get that anywhere else in the world. We also do world cuisine. We touch all around with the specials and the menus, such as southwestern mahi-mahi. A: There is definitely southern influence with classic touches. The lamb is Mediterranean. There is a little bit of worldwide influence; we aren't just southern contemporary.

Will Nick's atmosphere change after moving the restaurant to Fondren?
A: We are looking forward to our move into Fondren. It is a real opportunity to show the flexibility and versatility of what we can do. We will broaden our market to make ourselves more attractive to a larger population. It wouldn't hurt my feelings if the place filled up with people in scrubs. The entire medical community is right there, and they are all a blessing to the Jackson area. In the end, though, it will be the same type of atmosphere, but a little more casual. The bar area will be polished casual, and you will be able to sit down at a table and carry on a conversation without feeling like you are in a cavernous room. I think the people will be very surprised, especially by the intimacy of the dining room and the larger bar.

What is the restaurant business like?
G: Definitely time consuming and fast paced. It takes a certain individual to excel. You must have dedication and focus—as Nick said, focus really is the key. It doesn't end when you walk out the door. You must do your homework to keep up with the latest trends to be successful, and you don't have time to do homework when you are producing in the kitchen. A: Derek is right. It does take a certain type of individual to go ahead and do it. A lot of people want to be in this business, but they don't realize the dedication it requires. Time management is important, and there's not a lot of time for "Atta boys," because you must be moving to the next thing all the time. You must be a good business person and a teacher at the same time while working in such a way that your attitude becomes contagious to the people you work with.

How did you become interested in the restaurant business?
A: Just not smart enough to do anything else. No, well, I grew up in it. My parents are from the old country in Greece, and I grew up in the food business. It became a way of life for me. G: I fell into it through waiting tables in New Orleans. There is a mystique and allure to the kitchen. Anthony Bourdain put it the best when he said that kitchens are like pirate ships; there is so much adventure and adrenaline. I've always been an adrenaline junkie. I got sick of waiting on tables in New Orleans, so I started sautéing in the kitchen and realized I had a knack for it. And here I am, 15 years later.

What is your favorite Thanksgiving dish?
A: I would rather roast a capon or even eat lamb for Thanksgiving. When I worked for my dad when I was younger, Thanksgiving Day was probably one of the biggest days in the food service industry. I would cook 10 to 12 40-pound turkeys. Then I would have to break them down and slice them on the slicer, on top of fixing dressing. My wife has to fix turkey now. G: I am going to show my roots by saying green-bean casserole. It's not very culinary, but there's nothing like that, with the mushroom soup and fried onions on top. My wife also does really good oyster stuffing that I enjoy.

How does Nick's differ from your new Madison restaurant, The Mermaid Café?
A: The Mermaid Café is a much more casual environment. We do boneless chicken wings, sausage and cheese platters, homemade chips, burgers, pizzas and Delta fried seafood platters—check average is much less. Instead of using as many fresh ingredients, we use a few more quality frozen ingredients, which helps me to offer large quantities of food—like the catfish platter—at lower prices. It is just a casual place. You need to come out before sunset, have a glass of wine and watch the sun go down. It is the most relaxing setting you could ever hope to have.

Nick's Restaurant is located at 1501 Lakeland Drive. Nick's will remain at this location until Dec. 23, 2009, and will reopen Jan. 2, 2010, in Fondren at 3000 Old Canton Road. The phone number is 601-981-8017. The Mermaid Café is located at 652 Bellevue Drive, Madison. The phone number is 601-605-8764.