Ellington

Although they were Puritans, the Pilgrims had to drank it up at the first 1621 Thanksgiving dinner. I can see the barrels of wine scattered about as they stumble to their feet the morning after the gorge-fest. Through their hungover stupor, they high-five and congratulate themselves for a party well done.

OK—this didn't happen, and they didn't eat stuffing, either. But they did drink something. So, in keeping with tradition, so should we. But drink what? There are as many opinions about what to drink with the Big Meal as there are calories in it, but here's a smattering.

Some people like to marry France's Beaujolais Nouveau release with their Thanksgiving meal. The third Thursday of November is always the splashy arrival date for the first wines of the new vintage. Beaujolais Nouveau is a simple, fresh, non-egoistic fruit bomb of a red wine and is almost always 10 bucks or less. Made from the lighter Gamay grape, it's aromatic and laden with bright cherry candy or jam. My favorite producers in past releases have been Mommessin and Drouhin.

Wine snobs believe Pinot Noir is the ticket with turkey dinner, but a girl could go broke pouring pricey Pinot all day, especially if she's entertaining a crew. The best bet for a crowd is Australian Shiraz, since it seems to please everyone, it pairs OK with most food and many cost under $12.

But say you have some inventory to let loose? Since you're ideally with friends or family at Thanksgiving, maybe it's time to crack that expensive, memory-laden Chardonnay you brought back from California, or the dust-encrusted Napa Cabernet Sauvignon your wine-obsessed friend gave you. No time like the present—you're not working tomorrow, right?

Or you could splurge on a few expensive bottles—my rule is never open two bottles of the same thing at one sitting. Grab celebratory, get-the-party-startedFrench Champagne, an unusually named Californian or Australian blend to start conversation, or something you can't pronounce so you can make fun of each other. Basically, exploration and exposure are key.

Then there's the thought of snubbing the pundits and drinking whatever the hell you want. I frequently recommend food and wine pairings, but, honestly, I find myself drinking what's in front of me instead of what's planned. Menu discipline is difficult to maintain throughout an informal evening, especially after the second glass. And the perfect food and wine pairing is as elusive as Uncle Harry's hair. Since it's a holiday, maybe we should just chill out, sit back and drink what we like.

Recommended Wines

Murrieta's Well 2001 Zarzuela Livermore Valley. Sweetness = 2. $30. A cool, beefy blend of relatively unknown grapes like Tempranillo, Barbera, Petit Verdot and a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. Smells like fragrant roses and green olives, with dark cherry, orange zest and blackberry in the mouth. A truly unusual, fascinating wine.

Miner 2002 Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands. Sw = 2. $50. Like wassail at Christmas, but so much better. Spicy cranberry, burnt caramel, pinesap and fresh-cut flowers make this unique wine worth every penny.

Spires 2003 Chardonnay Barossa Valley. Sw = 3. $11. A food-friendly Chardonnay if I've ever had one. Loaded with vanilla, refreshing tropical fruit, peach and perfect acidity. An easygoing and unpretentious chard from the Aussies.

Freemark Abbey 2003 Viognier Napa Valley. Sw = 3. $22. Excellent food wine, with solid acidity, fragrant honeysuckle, tangerine and honey.

This article first appeared in Creative Loafing, the JFP's sister alternative in Atlanta.