Ellington

On the one hand, you've got your Mexican food, and on the other hand, you've got your Asian food. Difficult decision? Not when someone else prepares it, serves it and cleans up afterwards. Be sure to tip generously is all I can thankfully say.

El Sombrero Mexican Restaurant just opened in Byram. Traditional décor mixes well with plenty of good food at affordable prices in this latest El Sombrero. Luis Angel started the restaurant in Vicksburg just over 10 years; now there are also restaurants in Brookhaven, McComb, and Canton.

Every side order, combination dinner, entrée, fajitas and vegetarian dinner is numbered on the menu, making it easy to order—more about that later. Don't get too excited, though, when you see, down near the drawing of a cactus and a steer's skull, "Try our superb margaritas!" because, being in Byram, this particular El Sombrero cannot get a liquor license. However, if you like beer, have they got beer for you—at least 20 different ones, domestic and imported.

My first time in El Sombrero was with a group of talkative friends and neighbors—two of us in particular having to get over our margarita disappointment. Once those efficient handsome young men with the darlin' Spanish accents walked up to the table—dishes balanced on one outstretched arm from fingertips to shoulders—some of us of a certain age couldn't remember what we'd ordered, much less its number. Take my advice—write 'em down. Once we figured it out, talking ceased, and enjoyment ensued.

El Sombrero (346-9299) opens seven days a week at 11 a.m. Call for closings. Exit at Byram, I-55 South, left over the interstate, left onto the Frontage Road, right at the Enterprise car rental sign. El Sombrero is at the far end of the strip of stores on the right. The sign on the roof says "Mexican" in red neon and "Grill" in green—you can't miss it.

Those of us who've been missing Grant Nooe at the Brick Oven location on County Line are thrilled that Pan-Asia opened in mid-February. Elegant, classy, tasteful—and that's just the décor—easily describe the remodeled restaurant. A low slate-covered wall with a slightly off-centered slant separates the bar from the dining area. Natural wood ceiling beams and bar, a warm red and lemon yellow walls hung with vivid artwork including a bamboo and paper dragon-like lamp make you feel cozy in the wide-open space. On each table sits a bamboo cylinder filled with chopsticks made in China. Plenty of eager-to-serve wait staff and cooks, dressed in black, perform magic all around you—directed by Nooe himself, in plain sight and amid all sorts of enticing smells.

Early, I sat with my back to the open kitchen, watching for my friends, eavesdropping now and then on Nooe as he spoke quietly to the young men skillfully preparing everything from appetizers, sides-to-share, soups, salads, entrees, noodle dishes, wok dishes, and the stir-fry bar. I couldn't help but compare the calm efficiency and professionalism to what I had seen when I watched every episode of "The Restaurant." Things were going so well that I was sure no television producer would deign to film here—not enough big-city discord and chaos for them. Wouldn't draw the viewers, they'd say, but it sure did draw the diners. Not 30 minutes later, the place was packed.

Soon, though, I did witness one moment—make that two moments—of discord. Never fear, not among anyone working at Pan-Asia. My four librarian buddies and I always have a glass of wine while we study the menu and catch up on the latest. First discord: "Let's go!" Cheryl jokingly said in her native New Jersey tones when Garrett, our waiter, told her the restaurant will soon have its liquor license. A few moments later, Anne and her daughter Susannah mirrored Cheryl—heads snapped up—from the menu to Garrett, mouths dropped open, and Anne's smooth Southern voice repeated, "No wine?" The two of them decided on Japanese beer; Cheryl opted out. Discord over and done.

Nancey, Sherry, Mama and I just drank water, which, for some of the spicier Asian foods, turned out to be a boon. Between us we tried Spring Rolls, Duck Pot Stickers, Chicken Satay, Red Curry Chicken, Shrimp and Scallop Delight,and various combinations from the Stir Fry Bar. We didn't realize that it was the first night for the bar, but the wait was worth it, and our appetizers took the edge off admirably. After filling a Gail Pittman bowl (matches the décor splendidly) with vegetables ranging from bean sprouts to water chestnuts, you sit down and select to add either nothing or tofu, chicken, beef, shrimp, scallops, or grilled salmon; rice or egg noodles or steamed rice; and one of two sauces: ginger garlic or Thai coconut-curry. No matter the combination, when that steaming bowl is put before you, it's fine dining, Asian-style, right here in Mississippi.

Pan-Asia (956-2958) is at 862 Avery Blvd. Hours are 5-9 p. m. Mon. through Sat.
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