Ellington

What do you get when you take a little New Orleans flavor, a touch of Chicago, and top it off with the service and style of a classic steakhouse like Gibson's? You get Char (4500 Interstate 55 N., Suite 142, 601-956-9562), one of Jackson's premier restaurants. Now in its 11th year, Char was originally positioned as a steakhouse but has gradually evolved into a bastion of American cuisine with a focus on daily specials.

In the past year or so, a variety of changes have resulted in Char's rebirth. Headed by chef Paul Schramkowski, the restaurant is getting a new look, an updated menu and a fresh approach to food. With a shift in focus to local produce and seasonality, Schramkowski is making great strides toward his goal of cementing Char as one of the city's best restaurants.

Schramkowski, originally from a small suburb north of Milwaukee, Wis., called Grafton, has been cooking since he was 16. His professional career began in 1983.

Who inspired you to become a chef?
My godmother, probably: She said, "You know, if you really like cooking, you should be a chef." It was either a chef or an airline pilot.

What's your personal cooking history?
There was a fine dining restaurant in Wisconsin called Boaters on the River, and a staunch old German family ran it. They actually lived upstairs. It was a great restaurant, five- or six-course meals, very elegant. I started there at 16 doing a little prep cooking and dish washing. After talking to the chefs and sous-chefs, I went to the local tech school, Milwaukee Area Technical College for a culinary degree. After my time at MATC, I went to the University of Wisconsin for a hotel and restaurant management program. If you had your culinary degree, you only had to go to college for three additional years to get your B.A. It was actually cheaper than going four years at UW.

Let's say you're in culinary school. You've got a date coming over, and you're going to cook for her. What is your one go-to dish?
Oh, that's a good question. I'd probably do pizza, but a cool, hip pizza. I'd probably prepare something like duck sausage, spinach and smoked Gouda cheese.

What's your cooking style?
Rustic: I like the fresh, rustic approach.

What do you think sets Char apart from other Jackson restaurants?
Our reputation: Since we've made these changes, our sales have been way up. There was a lot of resistance. Regulars were really apprehensive to the changes, especially in the menu. Everything we do is focused on making Char the best restaurant in Jackson.

How often do you change the menu?
It's vaguely based around seasons, but we do keep a few of the same popular dishes.

What are some of your favorite dishes on the menu?
We just started this menu, but I really like the butternut squash ravioli, and the ricotta gnocchi is really fantastic. It's a braised lamb ragu. I just love ragus, and that gnocchi is basically all ricotta cheese with egg. They're super light, delicate and not doughy at all.

What is your favorite ingredient?
Chilies: guajillo in particular.

What is your least favorite ingredient?
Fish sauce: I still have not done a whole lot with Asian cuisine, and I've got a bottle of fish sauce in my refrigerator that I've had for five years. I don't know how to use it.

What is your most prized gadget?
My electric knife because of those perfect slices.

What is the one item you must have in your kitchen?
A wood grill with hickory wood.

If you could cook for anyone in America, who would it be?
Ronald Reagan. I think he would have been a fun guy.

You have to choose your last meal. What's in it?
It's going to be a prime New York strip with asparagus and au gratin potatoes—maybe a little lobster to go with that. I still love steak.

What is one piece of advice you would give anyone wanting to become a chef?
Well, it does require hard work. Everyone thinks they're going to go to school and be the next Iron Chef, but it's very difficult to find people who want to focus on food and the business. People get caught up in wanting to be a celebrity.

Does the restaurant have any community-service involvement?
We do an enormous amount with the Diabetes Association. We also do a lot of silent auction and church donations.