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Best of Jackson 2003: I Consume (Food)

Best Vegetarian: High Noon Café

Thanks to High Noon, many of us southerners were shocked to discover that squash is actually yellow, that cooked vegetables don't naturally glisten, and even mama's chicken salad is just as good with tofu and Nayonaise (just don't let her know).

Vegetarian? Vegan? Just open your menu, and High Noon will let you in on all the perks of a meat-free diet. Along with the ecological and environmental reasons people become vegetarians, they also list the major health benefits such as decreased risk for certain cancers, preventing and managing diabetes and lowering of blood pressure. For those of you serious about those New Year's resolutions the calories, fat, carbs, fiber, sodium, iron, and cholesterol content is listed for every entrée. Try a simmering bowl of spicy southwestern bean soup with just the right amount of green chilis along with a new twist to an old southern favorite the BLT, made with sizzling soy bacon, avocado, cheese and tomato stacked on freshly baked wheat bread. The High Noon burrito is another must-try meal with a grilled whole-wheat tortilla with sautéed peppers, black beans and brown rice. And don't forget the High Noon bakery inside Rainbow where you can grab a lemon ginger muffin or a smoothie like the Orange Julia (my son's favorite) or freshly made juices like the Ginger Fizz or the Cleansing Cocktail with beets, carrots and apple juice. The focus at High Noon Café is serving the freshest, tastiest and healthiest food in J-town. It's a dining experience that leaves you feeling like you did something good for yourself, mind, body and soul.
—Mimi Holland-Lilly

Staff pick: Yes, we love High Noon dearly; they definitely know our names. But we also adore the vegetarian options available at Bruno's Eclectic, where you can have a sophisticated, but unpretentious lunch or dinner, alongside a perfect cocktail without robbing your bank account. You can choose meatless paella, pad Thai and pasta, among other options. Tofu can replace meat in many of the dishes. Bruno's is one of Jackson's culinary jewels, and we are lucky to have her.

Second place: Bruno's Eclectic Cuisine,
1855 Lakeland D., 362-7779
Third place: Thai House, 2665 I-55 South, 373-8154

Best Plate Lunch:
Mikhail's Restaurant,
4330 N. State St., 982-3838

Clearly, lots of folks have their own favorite plate lunches. We're partial to Two Sisters, if only for their healthy approach, and of course there are untold options closer to heart in this, the land of the plate lunch. Mikhail's a particular thing going for it—the Sunday buffet lets you pick your own, and in our experience the offerings are hot, cleanly cooked and not overly greased, spiced or biased toward anyone's mama's way of doing things. It may not have the personality of some other choices, but it's a great place to take your group if you've got a hankering for home cooking buffet style.
— Todd Stauffer

Second place: Cherokee Inn,
5020 N. State St., 362-6388

Third place: Peaches,
327 N. Farish St., 354-9267

Best Take-Out: Room Service,
607 Fondren Place, 362-4617

Probably, at one of those interminable interoffice meetings, you've eaten their food, but you might not have known it. But if you tasted their potato salad, Room Service's regulars will tell you, you'd have seen the light. If, on the other hand, you didn't like the potato salad (heresy!), and you wrote a note about it, owner Hayes Thompson might have posted it on the wall inside. He kind of likes to think of himself as the Sandwich Nazi of Jackson. If you don't like it, stuff it, and don't come back. We think it's all bark with a bit of reverse psychology and marketing genius thrown in. Truth be known, he's charming, in a brutish kind of way. Regardless, the sandwiches are delicious. If you order what you like, you'll like what you've ordered. We'd bet this award on it. Take that, Hayes.
—Lori Herring

Second place: Best Wok, 225 Meadowbrook Rd., 368-9555
Third place: Keifer's, 705 Poplar Blvd., 355-6825; 120 N. Congress St., 353-4976

Best Italian: Amerigo, 6592 Old Canton Rd., Ridgeland, 977-0563

My ex-wife is Sicilian. Thus, I came to be suspicious of all things Italian–food, wine and art–even TV shows. Thus, I was cynical on my first trip to Amerigo; I feared my ex's attorney would appear at tableside to demand half my fettuccini. Alas, the excellent wait staff, ambiance, and food at Amerigo put my fears to rest, and my Italia phobia is cured. With one of the best-trained and friendliest wait staffs in the Jackson area, guests receive a gracious greeting from the hostess at the door. Should you have to wait for a table, Amerigo offers a comfortable and attractive bar. The wine list is more than adequate unless you or one of your dining companions is a pretentious wine snob. Food-wise, Amerigo's fare is fresh and flavorful with both Northern and Southern Italian influences. The veal picatta (new on the menu) is excellent with tender veal scallops, a sauce that is not too heavy, lump crabmeat and a bright, slightly tart taste. The fried calamari may be the best in town and is served with a creamy pesto sauce that is good enough to eat with a spoon.
—Lawrence Silver

Second place: Fratesi's Italian Foods,
910 Lake Harbour Dr., Ridgeland, 956-2929

Third place: Bravo, Highland Village, 982-8111

Best Pizza: Soulshine, 200 S. Commerce St., 352-1800

"Love Is Everywhere" and "Let Your Soul Shine" are the proclamations of Soulshine's menu. Located next to Hal and Mal's (and in one Flowood location), this pizzeria offers a unique dining environment. The menu includes 13 original thin-crust pizzas made with fresh ingredients—like The Mississippian and The Bob Marley—and an assortment of other foods including lasagna, calzones, po-boys, soups and salads with homemade dressings. And who could resist "Slap Yo Mama Cheescake"? Murals in an assortment of vibrant reds, blues, yellows, and greens on the walls and painted tables create an inviting atmosphere. The one-room restaurant is decorated with framed artwork and concert announcements. There is a small, but fully loaded bar on the right-hand side of the room. Working with Hal & Mal's, Soulshine presents live bands and plays host to a Wednesday night spoken-word open mic. Soulshine delivers throughout downtown.
—Shannon Buckley

Second place: Old Venice, 1428 Old Square Rd., 366-6872
Third place: Brick Oven Café, 862 Avery Blvd., Ridgeland, 956-2686

Best Red Beans & Rice: Que Sera, Sera, 2801 N. State St., 981-2520

Their name may bespeak easy-going affability, but their red beans and rice tell a different story. At Que Sera, Sera, they've won awards for the Creole specialty, and they don't mind letting their guests know. "Two Time Grand Champion!" the menu boasts. This would refer, by the way, to the annual Red Beans and Rice Festival. The restaurant also has been runner-up seven times, manager John King says. Now, while the recipe for the red beans and rice at Deja Vu is exactly the same, somehow Que Sera swept this award. Maybe it has something to do with the power of that Fondren Renaissance. You know what they say: what will be, will be.
—Lori Herring

Second place: Hal & Mal's, 200 S. Commerce St., 948-0888
Third place: Déjà Vu, 810 Lake Harbour Dr., Ridgeland, 899-8690,
and Popeye's, various locations (tie)

Insomniac Dining: Waffle House, various locations

It's 2 a.m., and you're starving. Maybe you work nights. Or you were up late finishing your tax return or the Great American Novel. Or you need some coffee and solid food after several hours at one of Jackson's finest watering holes. The best and easiest choice is the Waffle House. If you're a tofu-chomping vegetarian, go home. When you're at Waffle House, you're going to get the finest fried, scattered, covered and smothered cuisine money can buy. (Bring cash; no checks or credit cards accepted.) The coffee is good and hot, and they keep it coming. Same for the sweet tea. If the place isn't too busy, the Waffle House staff will entertain you by complaining about the schedule, other WH employees or bad customers (not you, hopefully). It's the best late-night show in town.
—Joe Jackson

Second place: 930
Blues Café, 930 N.
Congress St., 948-3344
Third place: Krystal

Reader Choice: Asian Food Honorable Mention

We thought we'd be stacking the deck if we added a Thai food category, as only Thai House (2665 I-55 South, 373-8154) and Bruno's Eclectic Cuisine (1855 Lakeland Drive, 362-7779) offer Thai in the metro area (that we're aware of). But plenty of folks wanted to vote for Thai House anyway—so much so that some of you actually put them in the Indian category. So we felt that deserved a special mention. Although the atmosphere is borrowed heavily from the Big Boy or old Denny's that Thai House replaced, you can't help but enjoy the Thai House experience—the food and the friendly service—especially when you're dying for a little tofu in spicy peanut sauce. Or not. The soups are tasty, there's Chinese on the menu (for the less adventurous) and, all in all, Thai house is an inexpensive treat.
—Todd Stauffer

Best Sushi: Little Tokyo #1, 4800 I-55 North, 982-3035

This brave little restaurant was Jackson's first taste of the Japanese specialty, and Jacksonians will likely never forget it. Diners from the early days have their pictures plastered on the walls, and the restaurant's regulars return with fierce loyalty no matter how many other sushi spots pop up. It's got the ambience, the vibe, the food. The guys with the knives behind the counter are always friendly. The scallops and the eel are the best in town. And there are people who would pay ten times the price for the chirashi. It's that fresh. And it's good.

Staff pick: All right, so it may not have the hopping, old-friend atmosphere of Little Tokyo. There may not be pictures of celebrities on the walls. But the sushi at Haru is possibly the best in town. In fact, it's some of the best we've had in the country. Seriously. Try Haru's spicy shrimp roll, or the Alaska roll, or any of the sashimi. Portion sizes are somewhere between Little Tokyo and Nagoya—which, for us, is perfect. We'd prefer not to have a super-sized California roll, thank you, but making the rolls a little bit bigger doesn't bother us. Means more yellowtail, avocado, cucumber, salmon, eel, asparagus. Go to Haru, drop three bucks, and just try the asparagus roll, dressed with almonds and a light sauce. We bet you'll come back for more.

Second place: Nagoya, 69351 I-55 North, 977-8881
Third place: Haru, 5834 Ridgewood Rd., 899-8518

Best Sandwich/Best Bakery: Broad Street, Banner Hall, 362-2900

This is the place you bring the family and friends from out of town who live the big-city life in NYC, L.A. or even Chapel Hill so you can say, "See, look what we have right here in Jackson. It's the real thing, a real full-service bakery—cappuccino muffins, chocolate croissants, blackberry cheese danishes, pear almond tarts and tiramisu." "Oooooh," they say. "And the coffee?" "Oh, man," you reply. "The coffee is great and, look, if you're in a hurry they have this little honor-system box where you just drop your money, grab your cup and leave, but you absolutely have to take a cinnamon roll with you. They're at least the size of a cat's head." But you don't have to say that last part. Then you could stay for lunch, and try the roasted portobella mushroom sandwich with basil pesto, goat cheese and roasted bell peppers, on focaccia bread. Or sample the smoked chicken and Andouille gumbo and the quiche of the day with field greens dressed in balsamic vinaigrette. Then after you're so full you have to save your key lime tart for later, you can ponder the myriad of freshly baked breads to take home for dinner. There's the ever-popular country French and farmhouse loaves for sandwiches, and the healthy multigrain sourdough and sugar-busters bread for those not intimidated by Dr. Atkins but a little more health-conscious than the rest of us. And don't forget the more intense but delicious flavors of pumpernickel and New York and marbled rye loaves. For a picnic at Mynelle Gardens or a little Euro dinner at home, grab a fresh baguette, a little Parmigiano Reggiano and some Italian olives at the Broad Street deli counter, and you're set.

Now, thanks to Broad Street, your guests are so thoroughly impressed with the amenities Jackson has to offer they are considering giving up digs in Seattle or D.C. to move to the new Mecca of the South. You panic and hum the "Deliverance" theme on the way to the airport just in case they're serious.
—Mimi Holland-Lilly

Second place: Room Service, 607 Fondren Place, 362-4617
(sandwich); Great Harvest Bread Co., 5006 Parkway Dr.,
956-4406 (bakery) (tie)

Third place: Jason's Deli, 1067 E. County Line Rd., 206-9191 (sandwich); Campbell's Bakery, 3013 N. State St., 362-4628 and Primo's, 2323 Lakeland Dr., Flowood,
982-2064 (tie for bakery)

Best Indian: Ruchi, 5852 Ridgewood Road,
moving to 5101 I-55 North by Feb. 1, 899-5234, 366-9680

And then there was one. Although Ruchi won this category on its own, word is that Ruchi will also be the only game left in town starting in February when Passage to India (formerly India Palace) and Ruchi merge. They'll be at 5101 I-55, named Ruchi, and the current Ruchi location will close. Both restaurants are good in their own way, but Ruchi's attention to detail and its creative appetizers put it over the top in our book, as well as in the readers' opinion. Try the Dosa for a great starter for two or more—the Dosa is a long crepe-like delicacy that can be stuffed with different fillings (we like Masala Dosa, with potatoes and onions). If you like spicy, add the Lettuce Wrap to your appetizer order. And water. Then, for carnivores, check out the pan-fried catfish. (OK, it's not a native Indian custom, but a rather clever adaptation of Southern Indian cuisine to Southern American realities.) Don't forget the vegetables—we had Malai Kofta (vegetable balls in a creamy sauce) for the first time on our last visit and really enjoyed it. And Aloo Gobi Masala (cauliflower and potatoes in a tomato base) and Palak Paneer (spicy creamed spinach and cheese cubes) are staples for us that go exceptionally well with the fragrant rice and pan-fried Nan bread.
—Todd Stauffer

Meal Under $10: Moe's Southwest Grill, 1405 Old Square Rd., 713-3767

A little too often around the JFP office someone will start in around lunch or dinner time with a friendly, "Welcome to Moe's!" Pretty soon we're all hankering for the Joey Bag of Donuts, Ruprict (named after the Steve Martin character in "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels," we think) or an Art Vandalay veggie burrito. Yeah, Moe's is getting to be a Big Ass Chain™, but we're impressed that they actually offer tofu as an option. (Full disclosure: we haven't actually tried any tofu yet—even the vegetarians among us.) Just give us beans—and cheese, and fresh jalapenos and four kinds of salsa…and keep it all under $10. (OK, so maybe the tacos are a touch pricey. Are you sure you really need three of them?) Sure, most fast food is under $10, but Moe's isn't most fast food—it's a good experience. We always see friends in the Old Square Road location and, yes, they now have TVs on the wall (20 whole minutes without TV? what could they have been thinking?), but at least they aren't turned up too loud. We'll be honest—we've racked up a few freebies on the frequent-diner card since we discovered Moe's. Here's hoping they don't get too corporate on us.
—Todd Stauffer

Second place: Keifer's, 705 Poplar Blvd., 355-6825; 120 N. Congress St., 353-4976
Third place: Brent's Drugs, 655 Duling Ave., 366-3427

Best Soul Food: Peaches, 327 N. Farish St., 354-9267

Soul food is made to fill your soul as well as your stomach; it is about cooking from the heart. Located in the heart of the historic Farish Street, Peaches Restaurant and Cafe has been filling the souls of local Jackson citizens since 1961. From the customers all the way to the cook, someone will always speak and greet you with a smile. You can sit at a booth or at the bar, where you can witness them preparing your food. Pictures of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and Muhammed Ali hang on the wall, as does an old guitar hanging above the cash register that looks just like B.B. King's guitar, Lucille. The juke box is filled with legendary blues artists (and bluesman Jessie Robinson plays there every Thursday at lunch). Perhaps best, you can buy an entire meal for under $5 and be completely full. The menu includes fried and smothered chicken, smothered pork chops, macaroni and cheese, candied yams, potato salad, beef stew, homemade soup, and every choice of greens you can imagine (along with unmentionables like gizzards and liver and pig's feet). The fried chicken is perfectly seasoned with a crisp, golden brown color that delivers a light and airy crunch with every bite. The macaroni and cheese was combined perfectly, and the mild, sweet flavor of the cabbage greens—a mixture of cabbage and more coarse greens—was the perfect accent. Even with an additional piece of corn bread, my total came to a grand total of $4, including tax. I left Peaches full physically and spiritually.
—Larissa Hale

Second place: 930 Blues Café, 930 N. Congress St., 948-3344
Third place: Bully's Restaurant, 3118 N.
Livingston Rd., 362-0484

Best Breakfast: Mikhail's Restaurant,
4330 N. State St., 982-3838

Thank the Maker that Frank turned up after Frank's Biscuits downtown was closed. If you haven't been to Mikhail's Northgate for breakfast, then you probably haven't been eating breakfast with us. We live there, and the waitress knows our Fondren Special order by heart. (You can usually order breakfast all day, but watch out for Sundays though, when lunch is the only option after noon.) Frank's World Famous Biscuits downtown location had better ambiance, and it was a little more central for weekday breakfast, but Mikhail's has Frank, and that makes all the difference.
—Todd Stauffer

Second place: Waffle House*, various locations
Third place: Julep, 1305 East Northside Dr., 362-5557; and Primo's,
2323 Lakeland Dr., Flowood, 982-2064 (tie)

Best Chinese: Best Wok, 225 Meadowbrook Road, 368-9555

If you get what you pay for, then perhaps it's significant that Best Wok doesn't have an all-you-can-eat buffet. The take-out-only hole-in-the-wall is open late, offers the best big-city Chinese menu we've come across in Jackson and even has a few, actual vegetarian options. We have it on good authority that the General Tsao's chicken is crisp, spicy and mixed with identifiable vegetables, and we're partial to the broccoli in garlic sauce accompanied by vegetable lo mein. Perhaps the best touch in the process—the staff usually doesn't even ask for your name when you order.
11 p.m. in Jackson? That's enough to get it the Editor's Award, too.
— Todd Stauffer

Second place: Empress, 6720 Old Canton Road, Ridgeland, 977-6279
Third place: Five Happiness, 2931 McDowell Road Ext., 371-8765;
and Sun Koon, 5105 I-55 North, 366-4940 (tie)

Best Barbecue: Hickory Pit, 1491 Old Canton Mart Road, 956-7079

Attention everyone on Atkins or Sugar Busters: Stay away from the cooler just to the left of the cash register at the Hickory Pit. Thick with whole pecans, the pecan pie begs to be taken home, warmed and topped with whipped cream or ice cream. Piled high and lightly toasted, the meringue on the lemon pie is reminiscent of the choppy surface of Ross Barnett on a windy day. Enough coconut is in the coconut cake to almost substitute for a weekend in the Caribbean, and the icing on the carrot cake is easily a quarter-of-an-inch thick. Lurking in the corner under a cloud of white meringue is the Hershey Bar pie. The Hershey Bar pie cannot be described. Like sex, one has to experience it to fully appreciate it.

In addition to the desserts the Hickory Pit offers barbecue, po-boys, and hamburgers. I have yet to try the burgers, but my sources report they are excellent, and the homemade French fries are a superb accompaniment. This award is puzzling: Plates of BBQ beef and pork are chopped rather than sliced, and the ribs and chicken are adequate but nothing out of the ordinary. But you cannot resist the desserts.
— Andrew Scott

Second place: Corky's Ribs & Bar-B-Q, 4245 Lakeland Dr., Flowood, 936-9901; and Sonny's Real Pit Bar-B-Q, 2603 Hwy. 80 W., 355-7434 (tie)
Third place: 930 Blues Café, 930 N. Congress St., 948-3344; E&L Barbeque, 1111 Bailey Ave., 948-6039; and Chimneyville BBQ Smoke House, 970 High St., 354-4665 (tie)

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